Visiting Jericoacoara, Brazil

A new destination is now possible from the Cayenne airport: a direct flight on Azul airlines to Fortaleza, Brazil's fifth largest city. The flight lasts only two hours and it is half the price of going to the Martinique or Guadeloupe from Cayenne.

Jack and I had heard from friends about a scenic and colorful seaside village lost amongst the dunes, Jericoacoara, now turned into a popular destination for surfers and tourists. It's about a four-hour drive to get there from Forteleza and the last hour is in a dune buggy since there are no roads for a ten-mile radius around Jericoacoara. Here are a few highlights of our week's stay. (Click on photos to enlarge).

We stayed in a pousada (sort of small hotel) that had great meals and a nice pool area.

Here's the pousada Carcarà taken from the front.

The landscapes all around Jericoacoara are picturesque. We took many wonderful walks along the coast.

This is one of the popular dunes from which crowds of tourists watch the sunset every evening.

We had fun watching this group of kids learn capoera, a famous style of danse and martial arts invented in Brazil.

In the middle of Jericoacoara is the Samba Rock café. We gathered here many evenings under this giant tree to listen to live Brazilian music. At night, there are chandeliers hanging in the tree and candles on all the tables... those were simply the most pleasant and charming moments I spent on this vacation.

All around Jericoacoara are gigantic dunes. It would seem that I'm lost somewhere in the Sahara desert...!

After a long day sightseeing, there was no greater pleasure for me than enjoying a cool caipirinha. It's a cocktail made from cachaça (sort of light rum), crushed ice, and lime... simple but really delicious.

There's also a twenty-minute walk to a natural arch just along the beach.

On our way back to Forteleza, we stopped in a fresh water lagoon where a restaurant was serving customers in the water... literally.

We just opted for a coconut drink and a hamac in the shade. Nice!!

The Salvation Island museum

Back on Royal Island, one of the tourist attractions is a small museum which retraces the history of the Salvation Islands. The museum is established in the most beautiful of all the historic buildings on the Salvation Islands, the former personal lodgings of the prison director at the time of the penal colony. (Click on photos to enlarge)

The museum seems forgotten by all of the island's visitors but the doors are always wide open, beckoning passers-by to cross the threshold and discover the documented history of the three Salvation Islands. There are several displays on an Indian tribe which first inhabited the islands and you can have a close look at a couple of centuries-old Indian tools found on an archeological dig.

Most of the panels, however, are dedicated to the history of the penal colony and describe how the islands were deforested and developed into a penal colony.

There was a particularly interesting display of a convict's paintings portraying his daily life in the prison. Here, for example, is his illustration of the convicts in isolated confinement.

To be honest, the museum is quite small since it is basically just one big room. However, I enjoyed exposing myself to a more in-depth historical view of the Salvation Islands. Like most people, I tend to forget the past and enjoy the islands for their tropical beauty. After the museum visit, I went in search of a nice place to watch the sunset...

 ... and I think I found a nice spot!

Saint Joseph Island - Part 2

After visiting the ruins, our pleasant walk around the island was quite a startling contrast to the heavy silence of the decaying prison cells and hallways. (Click on photos to enlarge.)

There were a few cliffs on Saint Joseph Island as well as large slabs of stone along the path.

In the background, there's the infamous Devil's Island to the right and Royal Island to the left where our hotel is located.

There's also a large cemetery on Saint Joseph which was used exclusively for the prison wardens and their families...

It seemed very peculiar to see all of these graves so close to the ocean.

Unlike the prison guards, convicts were buried out at sea. Their bodies were simply dropped overboard to be eaten by sharks as the pictures below shows. This practice is what made the waters around the Salvation Islands so shark infested... successfully discouraging the convicts from ever trying to escape by swimming off the islands.

The only beach (actually more pulverized shells than sand) on the Salvations Islands is here too. However, at low tide (like on the picture) you have to walk over large black stones to reach the water to swim. Most people prefer to wait for high tide.

Here's a bread fruit tree that grows all over French Guiana. The fruit is edible and can really feed a lot of people. One easy recipe is to just pluck it off the tree when it's big and ripe and wrap it in aluminum foil. Then, place it on the coals of a barbecue for an hour or two. When you eat it, you can smear it with butter or dunk it in sauce or dips-- it's quite nice!

Saint Joseph Island -- Part One

During the school holidays at the end of October, Jack and I were able to set foot on Saint Joseph Island for the first time since our arrival in French Guiana. It is the second largest of the Salvation Islands after Royal Island but is uninhabited today except for a small army team responsible for maintenance. (Click on pictures to enlarge.)

Saint Joseph Island is a real Caribbean gem, but it is very small. In fact, it only took us an hour to go around the entire island.

Here's a picture with Royal Island on the left (where our hotel is located) and the infamous Devil's Island on the right.

During the penal colony period, Saint Joseph was much closer to hell than the island paradise it is today. The convicts had to build all the buildings and roads on Saint Joseph and this one leads to the ruins of the prison cells.

Contrary to Royal Island, Saint Joseph was used for isolated confinement as a means to punish the toughest and most dangerous prisoners... but Napoleon III also used it to exile his political enemies.

Here's one of the confinement cells, today full of wild vegetation. At the time of the penal colony, these cells were kept in darkness by thick walls and roof. There was also no furniture or bed and only two pans-- one for food and the other for going to the bathroom. Silence was imposed and if the prisoners attempted to talk to the guards or other prisoners, their isolation confinement got prolonged.

Malnutrition and disease usually killed the convicts before their time in confinement expired. 

It's hard to imagine the French prison wardens once pacing up and down this corridor. Today the jungle has reclaimed its right to stand guard over this morbid place of memory.

Feeding the monkeys

A lot of monkeys thrive in the rain forest where we live. If you're quiet an patient, you can even have some surprising encounters... (Click on photos to enlarge.)

Incidentally, the monkey is on the left, not on the right...

My tropical vegetable patch

I've decided to try growing some organic vegetables and herbs amongst all the tropical flowers in my backyard.

I took a lot of compost from my compost pile and mixed in a sack of potting soil. I made two mounds and then planted a tropical variety of green beans and corn. Finally, I put lots of mulch on top of the soil to keep it from drying out with all of the hot sun we get at this time of the year. (Click on photos to enlarge.)

The green beans I planted are called "Yard long bean" and are the local variety we find in stores here in French Guiana and in Surinam. These beans grow fast and easily and taste just like normal green beans.

They're not kidding when they call them "yard long" beans.

Look! They take up half the kitchen table!

I've just planted some cherry tomatoes too. I'll see how they turn out. Although I've had a few problems with insects, mostly stink bugs, I'm very proud to eat my own organic homegrown vegetables. It's actually not that hard at all and very rewarding.